– Day 19

            Whoo!  It’s a warm one today!  So it was nice to spend some time in the air conditioned car, since nothing else is air conditioned around here!

            After a nice breakfast in the hotel, we headed for Torgau.  It’s about an hour’s drive each way, southeast from Wittenberg.  One of the guide books says “Traditionally, Wittenberg is known as the `mother of the Reformation,’ while Torgau is dubbed the `wet nurse of the Reformation.’  It is really fascinating.

            The GPS got us to the town in good shape, but then we wandered around for a few minutes trying to find the “zentrum: of the town (center of the historic section).  We found a parking lot, bought a 1 euro parking permit, then discovered that parking is free on Sunday.  Oh well. 

            We walked past the Marienkirche (more on that later), but they were having a Gottesdienst (worship service).  There was a sand sculpture of Katie Luther out in front – they had a Katie Luther festival last weekend, and I suspect it was left over from that.

            From there we headed for the Hartenfels Palace, called the best preserved example of Renaissance architecture in Europe.  The castle is built right on the Elbe River.  As part of the palace, Luther was asked to design a chapel.  After the chapel was built according to his specifications, he came from Wittenberg to dedicate it.  It’s a wonderful little chapel – 3 stories high with a balcony on each level.  I have wanted to see this chapel for many years, since it is the first example of a worship space designed particularly for Lutheran worship.  As I had been told, one of the main features that Luther specified is a free-standing altar, and Luther expected that communion would be celebrated from behind the table.  I wish we could convince more Lutherans that this is indeed a proper Reformation design!  Also, the pulpit (mounted on the side wall as is usual here in Germany,) is in the middle of the nave.  This is to emphasize that the proclamation of the Word is the central element, along with the sacrament, in Lutheran worship.  It was truly a wonderful space.

            After the chapel, we began to explore some other parts of the castle.  To get to the inside, we had to cross the moat bridge, and they still keep brown bears in the moat to guard the castle.  Some guards – the bears were sleeping in the shade!

            We walked down  a ramp to the Elbe River level, and found that we could tour the foundation of the castle, which served as a prison and a dungeon.  Cool, dark, damp – it really felt medieval.  Got what I hope will be some good pictures down there. 

            From there, we went down by the river through one of the lower level castle gates.  It was beautiful.  Then back to the interior courtyard.  There is a really cool free-standing spiral staircase that goes up 3 stories – we climbed that.  Finished at the castle after that.

            Torgau is also known as the place where American and Russian soldiers met at the Elbe River near the end of WWII.  We found a little museum that had a photo exhibit of some of those times – very fascinating.

            The other claim to fame for Torgau is that Katie Luther is buried there.  We saw a “museum” that consisted of a memorial room for Katie in the house where she died.  After that, we went back to the Marienkirche, where she is buried.  So now we have visited Martin’s grave and Katie’s grave.  The grave is in the church where we stopped at the beginning.  It has been “refreshed” and is very beautiful.  We walked around the church for a while, then my brother asked if he might play the organ.  Much to everyone’s surprise, the answer was “Yes.  Just don’t forget to turn it off when you are done!”  So he played for about 20 minutes.  It is a very very nice instrument, and it was fun to hear him play.  Then we headed back to Wittenberg.  We tried to stop at a couple grocery stores, but they must all be closed on Sundays.

            This afternoon at 5 we went to Choral Evensong at the Schlosskirche.  It was really very nice, modeled after the Choral Evensong that you would hear at an Anglican cathedral in Britain.  Small choir – we all sat with them in the “choir” of the church.

            The brat stand was closed, so we went to another outdoor restaurant for a hamburger – my first one in almost 3 weeks.  The weather outside was gorgeous.  After supper we sat outside in front of the hotel and talked for an hour and a half.  Now it’s time to finish this and post it.  Tomorrow we’ll spend in Wittenberg, walking around one more time with Paul and Barb.